Men’s outerwear comes in various styles, and the smoking jacket is one of them. This apparel brings to mind a certain glamour particular to old Hollywood. Though it was initially worn among dapper men who smoked in their homes, the jacket has evolved to feature contemporary tweaking and use cases.
In this guide, you’ll learn all you ought to know about smoking jackets. They’re now a must-have for the modern man looking for a debonair and luxe alternative to the traditional evening coat.
What is a Smoking Jacket?
A smoking jacket is a type of men’s outerwear that features a shawl collar, turn-up cuffs, and a tie belt, button, or toggle fastening. It is often made with luxury fabrics like velvet, wool, brocade, or silk. In 1850, the Gentleman’s Magazine of London described it as:
“a kind of short robe de chambre, of velvet, cashmere, plush, merino or printed flannel, lined with bright colors, ornamented with Brandenburg and large buttons.”
As the name implies, this jacket was initially designed for tobacco smoking or cigars. Its original purpose was to keep the smokers warm and absorb the tobacco odor, preventing it from getting to their clothes.
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Brief History of the Smoking Jacket
The original smoking jacket was a dressing gown men wore for warmth and to showcase their wealth while changing clothes throughout the day or switching to their pajamas at night. These robe-de-chambre were often made with lush fabrics such as satin, plush wool, cotton, or velvet.
As international trade grew in the early 17th century and smoking tobacco became a popular leisure activity for men, these pieces became necessary to protect a gentleman’s clothes from smoke. It wasn’t out of place then, as menswear wasn’t mass-produced. So, protecting one’s wardrobe staples was crucial for durability.
The 19th Century
In the 1800s, the jacket evolved from a robe-like covering with a sash belt into a shorter style that resembled a dinner jacket. Prince Albert, Queen Victoria’s husband, loved them. His style preferences often set trends among nobles. Then, in 1865, Edward VII, Prince of Wales, asked Henry Poole & Co. to create a jacket he could wear during meals. Unlike typical coats of that time, Poole’s suit for the prince, a blue silk smoking jacket with matching pants, was a tailless evening jacket, the first of its kind.
A few years later, in 1885, James Brown Potter, a coffee broker, visited the UK and saw the Prince of Wales wearing his smoking jacket. He took the coat to his home in New York and wore it to the Tuxedo Club Autumn Ball in 1886.
Smoking Jackets in the 20th Century
And that was how the smoking jacket became the tuxedo, transcending the borders of the United Kingdom. Its popularity grew as more royalties and upper-class individuals donned it. Men began wearing variations with different closures instead of a sash, making them suitable for dinner gatherings. Its loose-fitting design was a more comfy and relaxed option than regular formal attire. It allowed men to relax and enjoy smoking without feeling uncomfortable or worrying about the smell.
Then, in the 1950s, celebrities like Frank Sinatra, Cary Grant, Dean Martin, and Fred Astaire regularly donned smoking jackets with black tie outfits, making them more trendy. Hugh Hefner, Founder of Playboy Magazine, also became famous for his collection of smoking jackets when Playboy’s first issue hit shelves in December 1953 with Marilyn Monroe as the cover. The issue went viral, resulting in Hefner becoming an instant celebrity. Soon, lascivious men began to pay him visits, and he, in turn, would entertain them in his silk pajamas and smoking jackets. In no time, other men began to dress like him.
Smoking Jackets Today
The smoking jacket has become the perfect fit; you can pair it with your trousers, tie, and shoes for an alternative black tie outfit. Though it no longer serves its original function, it’s still a statement piece suitable for ceremonies. However, they’re not as popular as a full tuxedo or double-breasted suit.
Why You Should Wear a Smoking Jacket
If you’re considering getting this jacket, here are perks to convince you:
They’re Luxurious
These jackets are often crafted from lush fabrics. Hence, they transform your everyday look into an opulent one, helping you exude sophistication at any event.
They’re Elegant
The smoking jacket elevates your style. It oozes an air of timeless elegance that makes even the simplest things look magnificent.
They’re Comfy & Warm
Wearing this jacket is your ticket to embracing warmth and comfort in winter. It’s a great way to look hot and suave when it’s cold.
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How to Wear a Smoking Jacket
These jackets come in subtle yet bold colors such as navy blue, burgundy, dark green, and black. Wear them in any of these ways:
Dress It Up
Got a formal event to attend? Say a wedding, red carpet event, award show, or any black tie event you’d love to make a style statement at. Dress up your smoking jacket with well-tailored (matching or not) pants. Then, add a crisp shirt, a bow tie, and formal shoes for men like Oxfords, Derby, brogues, loafers, etc.
Dress It Down
When it’s time to attend casual events or dinner parties with friends, bring out your smoking jacket. Then, dress it down with jeans, chinos, T-shirts, sneakers, slippers, moccasins, etc., for a smart casual look.
Smoking Jacket as Loungewear
Pair your smoking jacket with pajamas or shorts and slippers for a comfy and sleek look while lounging at home.
Make a Style Statement with a Smoking Jacket Today
A smoking jacket isn’t just a piece of outerwear; it’s a garment that embodies the essence of true luxury. Add one to your wardrobe and rock it with pride, knowing you have a comfy piece that elevates your style beyond measure.
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